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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
An interesting question by some v owners:
Here's how to do a system DIY, requires several tools, cables, fuse panel, etc, ease of this project is rated at 8-10 in terms of 10 being difficult!

1-90 amp battery isolator, electronic is preferred, mounted to the frame on the drivers side near the brake resovoir, using the accessories switched wire near the aux 12v plug, connected to terminal ignition on the isolator, the positive charge cable(from main battery ) is connected to battery terminal, terminal 1, cable to postive of main battery, terminal 2 is connected to the positive of the secondary battery, which is place under and to the rear of and below the drivers seat. This battery could be a (does not matter) dry cell or wet cell ( do Not worry if the battery is larger, get one that fills the space ), as you need reserve capacity for accessories. Both batteries negatives to ground.
For the secondary battery, a fused 100amp -10 circuit panel is connected in series to the positve. This creates an auxiliary fused panel to which switches and relays are connected to control any accessories that you may have. This panel could be mount under the drivers seat. In this configuration, both batteries are used when running, and only the secondary battery provides power when not running, thus preserving the main battery. Several relays could be installed to switch power to control circuits of the second battery.

In preparation, includes building brackets for isolator, battery bracket, and fuse panel box. Custom Main battery cables was #6 with soldered copper ends. wiring to and from fuse panel 12 guage was used, severals relays and switches were also installed. All wires and cables are covered with plastic lumix . total time to complete about eight hours.

No pictures are available as disassemable of viking's panels is not going to happen.

Happy holidays!
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