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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Using exhaust to provide heat. This is easily removable for warranty purposes and I like the idea that the shrouding prevents debris/little hands from directly touching the exposed header. You're still going to get burnt if you touch it but not as bad as directly to the header.

Thin piece of aluminum sheet from Lowe's: $30
2" diameter, 6' long bendable exhaust: $60 locally.......can be had for $30 online
3" bilge pump fan $18 (will need to revisit this as Revision 2 collects so much heat it melted the housing)
Various hose clamps $10
Aluminum dryer duct (not plastisized) $10 (not really necessary but if you have some laying around use it)
2"-3" rubber coupler: $5
Revision 1 used some drain tubing but isn't needed in Rev 2

Rev 1 with bendable exhaust pipe run alongside existing exhaust and secured with hose clamps. It can't be run beside it all the way due to the bending radius but I routed it along the sides. Air coming out the exhaust was barely warm so I added the dryer duct around both to capture more heat:



Routing under the bed:



Hooked up to bilge pump fan using 2"-3" adapter:



Exhaust under drivers seat:



Those $20 seat warmers actually do a good job of keeping your back side warm:



Revision 2 uses an aluminum box made roughly 10x12x2". The bendable exhaust hose was repositioned and is no longer used to collect heat from the header (which the aluminum box now does) but just transport it to the cab:



Rev 1 was good enough to heat the cab to 87F while it was 26F outside:



Rev 2 worked so well it melted the bilge pump fan:



If you're worried about carbon monoxide, I drove 5 miles to my in-laws and didn't feel light-headed or anything. Part of the effectiveness of the system comes from air being pumped into the cab.......at speed, I noticed that I didn't get as much air blowing in from the gaps in my windshield\cab.
 
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