Yamaha Viking Problems
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Now that the weather has turned cold here in NE Indiana, I am having a problem with my starter. About half the time when I turn the key to start nothing happens.
I have my foot on the brake when in gear like you are supposed to. I always have to move the shifter to neutral or shift to neutral and back to get it to engage. Anyone else run into this? There must be some kind of throwout switch hanging up I guess.
I have my foot on the brake when in gear like you are supposed to. I always have to move the shifter to neutral or shift to neutral and back to get it to engage. Anyone else run into this? There must be some kind of throwout switch hanging up I guess.
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575 Posts
I haven't had any issues, mine was the First Vikiing my dealer got, got it around the first of August. The only issue ive read about online was Door latches breaking in the extreme cold.
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12 Posts
My Viking wont start when its really cold , try and listen to see if the fuel pump comes on before you roll the motor over , mine was a relay not letting the fuel pump to engage
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20 Posts
Make sure brake lights are coming on, the brake switch is part of the circuit when starting in gear so if the lights are not coming on then the switch is not getting switched. IF this is your problem the switch normally can be adjusted near the pedal. I have not looked at one on Viking but on a rhino it has a nut on the switch to adjust it
Todd
Todd
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575 Posts
0 Problems here, happy Yamaha customer, as ive been, every time ive owned a Yamaha.
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178 Posts
The only issue I have is the fact that the actual ground clearance was WAY less than advertised. Then...you put just a little bit of weight in the back, and it settles a TON! Got the noise fixed so, other than that...it's pretty much as if I was on the design team 
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127 Posts
over heating on new unit,at my dealer to day
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127 Posts
got fixed ,bad connectonover heating on new unit,at my dealer to day
i was watching them fix it
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256 Posts
glad to hear it wasnt anything major
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4 Posts
I had a small issue with my shift lever. It started to become hard to get into low, then reverse, then any gear change was very difficult. I suspected a shift cable issue at first but wasn't really concerned. By the time the day was over the shift lever was completely loose and I was stuck in high gear, had to lift the box and shift with the linkage on the trans to get into reverse. I removed the front plastic and started to investigate. Found that the pin that secures the lever to the actual shift block, I guess you could call it, had almost completely fallen out. The pin has a groove for a snap ring to secure it but that of course was gone. Just looking at the wear marks on the metal of the shifter, the block, spots where the return spring sits and lack of wear marks in the snap ring groove and the block where the snap ring would ride, I would say that it was not even installed from factory. There is no sign of its existence at all other than a groove for it to fit in. I installed a new E-clip that fit the groove and have had no issues since. I took the plastic off again and did some more looking after running a while with the new snap ring in and as suspected, it has made some rub marks in the metal already, reinforcing my belief that there was no snap ring in place from factory. Not a big issue at all, fix cost $1.07 for 6 E-clips and was done in about 20 minutes but maybe it is a good thing to check if you have your front plastic off, it may save an on trail issue.
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4 Posts
Hey nemz,
I tried to pm ya but I couldn't load pics on the message properly. I'll just put them on here. I have cropped these pics to make it easier to see. I don't have a picture of the pin removed but you can see it in one of these pics. The yellow circle is the location of the linkage set up, the blue circle is the head of the pin. In the close up picture the pin is reinstalled but the shifter and spring are not in place properly. It is a bit of a job to get the shift lever, return spring and pin all assembled properly, you will have to use all four of your hands (lol) and hold your tongue just right but it is possible, with minor blood loss lol. When I reassembled the whole sheboo I put a generous amount of grease on the pin and in the lever tube. It may just collect dust and grit but I was hoping it would help with wear some and it sure did hold stuff together a little better for me as you need about 6 hands to effectively manage the tools and parts.
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I tried to pm ya but I couldn't load pics on the message properly. I'll just put them on here. I have cropped these pics to make it easier to see. I don't have a picture of the pin removed but you can see it in one of these pics. The yellow circle is the location of the linkage set up, the blue circle is the head of the pin. In the close up picture the pin is reinstalled but the shifter and spring are not in place properly. It is a bit of a job to get the shift lever, return spring and pin all assembled properly, you will have to use all four of your hands (lol) and hold your tongue just right but it is possible, with minor blood loss lol. When I reassembled the whole sheboo I put a generous amount of grease on the pin and in the lever tube. It may just collect dust and grit but I was hoping it would help with wear some and it sure did hold stuff together a little better for me as you need about 6 hands to effectively manage the tools and parts.
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46 Posts
Thanks a bunch shakes
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